About this Blog!

I (Robert Josif/ RJ/ Nunny) have made this website to help fellow surfers and new comers to the sport to understand the craze which is Surfing...
Full list of contents:
Wetsuits
Surfboards

Tide Times + Prediction

Wave Prediction

Wave Formation
Learn how to surf

Wetsuits

A good Wettie is the single most important item needed to surf in Britain (and many places abroad too!) well, except for your board.

It is important that:

It fits securely but does not restrict movement or breathing! -If it is to tight it will be impossible for you to move and so will not be able to surf.

It should not be to big either! -It will rub and let water in and in doing so leave you cold wet and miserable. This means you will not enjoy your surf.

Does not rub! -You will not know definitely until you wear it in the sea, but obviously if it is too lose it will rub.

Keeps you warm in the water! -New advances in technology mean neoprene can be made 'super stretchy', 'super light' and 'super warm'. The thickness of a suit is given in two to three numbers referring to the millimetres of thickness e.g. 2:2, 3:2, 3:4, 4:5 and 3:4:5 are the most common. The separate numbers refer to the three main areas of the suit (legs, body, arms and chest).
A word to the wise: Believe me... I speak from personal experience!!!

Surfboards

Surfboards are measured in feet, inches and fractions of an inch. A surfboard is measured in three directions Height, Width and Depth. The measurements are usually written along the bottom of the board in the order of Height, Width and Depth e.g. 6’4’’-18’’-2 1/3’’

To the attention of all Beginners!!!

The ideal surfboard for a new comer to the sport is somewhere between a 7’3’’ and 8’00’’ board (Mini Mal). Below that would be too small and above too big, both shorter and longer boards require more control and ability as they have completely different riding styles.

See ‘Learn How to Surf’ post to learn how to surf. Not as confusing as it seems is it?

Short Boards

If you are a proficient surfer or an intermediate looking for tighter turns or a bit more speed than your average Mini Mal can provide, then this is the board for you…

The best advice is to go to a local surf shop and tell them what you are looking for; how long you have been surfing, what you have been surfing, where, what you want from a board and where you are aiming with your surfing.

A word to the wise: Do not go too short too quickly. If you do, If you do, you will find it incredibly hard to enjoy your supposedly calm and enjoyable surf session, and will end up kicking your board in two with frustration!!!

Long Boards

Long boards are loosely termed as being 8 ft long or more (Yeah that Looooong!)

If you are a proficient surfer or an intermediate looking laid back, cruise along the waves in a graceful and calm fashion, you may well find it on a Long Board.
Yet again the best advice is to go to a local surf shop and tell them what you are looking for; how long you have been surfing, what you have been surfing, where, what you want from a board and where you are aiming with your surfing.

A word to the wise: Do not go too long too quickly. If you do, you will find it incredibly hard to enjoy your supposedly calm and enjoyable surf session.

Do not expect it to be easy. Surfing is a challenge… Embrace it!

Wave Formation

Wave formation is a science, and a flaming technical one at that! It would be foolish or even down right stupid to try to explain in detail; as you would probably stop reading after the first few paragraphs of scientific jargon or fall a sleep in a pile of your own excrement, extremely tired, with a headache to match your worst ever hangover and still not be any the wiser on ‘how waves are formed’. Also, even I don’t fully understand the full technicalities of it in the first place.

Wave formation is most commonly recorded by off shore buoys. (Many websites include a wave formation chart; either in 2D or as an animation)

In brief:

The surface of the water is pushed along by the wind; but only powers the top part of the wave, thus creating troughs. As the water gets closer to the shore, friction from the beach slows the lower part of the wave. The top part of the wave carries on building momentum; forming a crest, then the wave starts to peak and finally to break.










Diagram of a breaking wave:

Wave Prediction

Until recently it has been incredibly difficult to work out precisely what the surf will be like tomorrow or the next day, let alone in a week from now!

You could do one of several options:

« Visit a surf prediction site (most decent surf sites have one!)

I tend to use www.magicseaweed.co.uk

Magic Seaweed also provides animated Surf, Swell Height and Wind Charts (as do several other sites!)

The BBC also have a daily surf forecast which is pretty good, although admittedly it only gives you today’s forecast. Found at http://www.bbc.co.uk/cornwall/surfing/

« Check webcams and see for yourself!

« Or if you think your Geography is up to scratch, try a hand at predicting it yourself from a ‘Pressure Chart’.

You can find ‘Pressure Charts’ on the internet e.g. on the Met Office site at www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/uk/surface_pressure.html

I’m not an expert in this field and would strongly recommend reading up on the internet or buying this book ‘Surf Science, By Tony Butt and Paul Russell’. Some of it is quite technical but is explained using pictures and examples.
“Dr Tony Butt is not only a research oceanographer but a well respected big wave charger, Paul Russell is a former European Surfing Champion and also a PHD in oceanography - probably the perfect team to explain the theory behind surf forecasting.” Extract from the Magic Seaweeds review of this book.

‘Surf Science, By Tony Butt and Paul Russell’ also explains how waves and tides are formed.

Tide Times + Prediction

For Millions of years there have been tides across the globe; usually consisting of two high and two low tides. Tides occur roughly every six hours.

Tides are created by the combined gravitational pull of the Sun and Moon on the earth (Other heavenly bodies, such as the planets of our solar system, also have an impact; these impacts are so miniscule that it is safe to ignore them.

To predict you could do one of several options:

« Buy a tide time table (a lot of surf shops provide them free!)

« Look on the internet (www.magicseaweed.co.uk, http://www.bbc.co.uk/cornwall/surfing/ or the like!

« Buy a tide clock and set it to your favourite break.

« Use deduction e.g. “If tides happen every six hours, the next low tide will be six hours on from the last high tide.” Simple innit!

Learn how to Surf

New comers to the sport or even Surfers just wanting to improve can go to a BSA Qualified Surf School, and learn the basics techniques of surfing and basic maneuvers.

On this site I will concentrate on the basics of standing, as you can’t really learn complex maneuvers from a piece of text.

First lie on your board with your back to a wave and start to paddle. Use long powerful strokes similar to when swimming breaststroke.
Once you feel you have caught the wave move your arms down the rails until your hands are in line with your nipples. Start to lift your chest off the board; just like a press up.
Using your toes and abdomen, try to bring your legs up under you and in to a side ways crouch.
Once you have attained your balance lift your arms off the rails and with your legs still slightly bent bring yourself into an upright position, head facing forwards.

Once you have mastered the art of standing up without falling off the next step is turning.

Once standing turn your head and angle your body in the direction you want to go and put more weight on your back foot.
Continue facing in the right direction for as long as you want.

A word to the wise: You will fall off and you will get wet, get used to it!